Using talc to countersunk screws, follow simple tips to stop annoying squeaky boards rubbing together or becoming loose

The majority of homes built before the second world war have suspended floors. They are constructed using rows of thick wooden beams, called joists, topped by floorboards running at a right angle to the joists. The lines of nails on the boards indicate the position of the joists underneath. Floorboards shouldn’t creak or squeak when you walk on them – if they do it is a sign that the boards are rubbing against each other.

You will need: Talc or chalk Drill 2mm and countersink wood bits 4mm x 50mm countersunk slothead screws Screwdriver Floorboard brads Hammer Punch

1) First lift any coverings there may be on top (carpets, vinyl etc). Examine the squeaking board and neighbouring ones. Do they seem springy? This may be because the joists below are defective – it’s worth seeking professional advice in this instance.

2) If the board and adjacent ones are firmly fixed, dust talc or chalk through the cracks to stop them rubbing together. This may be sufficient to stop the problem.

3) If the board seems loose, you will need to replace the fixings. Before you begin, look at the full length of the board and where it is in relation to your plumbing. If it appears to have been lifted before or has been cut into smaller pieces, there may be pipes lying directly underneath the boards and you’ll need to prise up the board to check that it is safe to add new fixings.

4) Once you are satisfied it is safe to proceed, choose your fixings. Screws will give a firm hold though you’ll need to pre-drill a hole with the 2mm drill bit and countersink the hole for a flush finish. The downside of screws is that the screwhead can get blocked (especially if you use the crosshead type), making it difficult to remove them later. Also worth bearing in mind is that the screwheads must be recessed if you plan to use a sander on your boards.

5) If you opt for nails, you can buy special floorboard brads that are flat, blunt and sort of L-shaped. They look more traditional than screws, but they can’t be used within 3cm of the end of the board or they will split the wood. Also, the vibrations caused by banging them in can loosen other nails in the board or even cause damage to the ceiling below (if there is one). The flat surface of the brad should be parallel to the grain of the wood; hammer them in sharply. Finally, bang the head of the brad below the surface of the board by placing the tip of a punch on it and giving a quick tap using a hammer.

Susanna Clarke is an interiors journalist. She is the former editor of DIY Week magazine and has worked on many DIY projects of her own, including the complete renovation of her flat.

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